Caballo Blanco – The Week-Long Journey
Sunrise at Mansion Tarahumara
It’s hard to fully capture the magic of this week without photos. Even then, it’s something you feel more than explain. While running is what draws most people to the Sierra Tarahumara for the Caballo Blanco Ultra Marathon events, this experience is about so much more than running.
The week begins in Chihuahua( City), where a group of mostly strangers gathers at the host hotel. This year, a handful of returning runners—some coming back for their second or even third time—helped bridge the gap between new faces. We spend the evening exploring El Centro, sharing introductions, and slowly beginning to connect before loading into vans the next morning to head into Rarámuri lands.
Our first stop is Divisadero. There, we enjoy what might not be considered “fine dining” in the traditional sense—but is, in every way that matters. Women cook over oil drums, crafting some of the best gorditas you’ll ever taste. Simple, traditional, and incredibly good.
From there, we continue on to Mansión Tarahumara, a stunning location perched above the canyon. The views are breathtaking, and the rhythm begins to slow. Yes, there are runs, but also time around the fire. In the evenings, Hugo—wise, warm, and deeply talented—fills the air with music and song. In the morning, we watch the sun rise over the canyon in near silence, feeling both small and deeply connected to the land.
We then travel deeper into the Sierra, arriving at San Isidro Lodge, set within a Rarámuri ejido. It’s the perfect base for exploration—running to waterfalls, visiting caves, sharing meals, experiencing a temazcal, and gathering again each night around the fire for music and connection. Makawi a renown Raramuri leader shares through song and poetry one evening which was extra special.
One of the most meaningful moments of the week is our visit to the Rarámuri school in Porochi. We prepare lunch for the children and spend time simply being with them. We bring games and school supplies, but the heart of the day is in the connection—playing darts, coloring, jumping rope, laughing together. It sounds simple, and it is. But year after year, this day leaves a lasting imprint on everyone.
As the week unfolds, we descend into Urique, the small and welcoming pueblo where the race begins. Many of us stay at Entre Amigos—where Caballo Blanco himself often stayed—while others opt for Hotel Estrella del Río. Regardless of where we sleep, we all gather in the evenings at Entre Amigos, sharing stories, music, and the growing sense of community that defines the week.
Friday brings the Caballitos kids’ race, one of the most joyful parts of the event. Everyone comes together to help—handing out t-shirts, hats, buffs, and origami ponies (hand folded by Celeste every year and this year Brian helped too). True Messages, with support from Earth Runners (and others like David who raised funds through a social media campaign plus Mas Locos and others who donate generously to True Messages), provides hats and helps fund prizes for both the children’s races and the adult 100-mile events. At the finish line, we cheer with full hearts as kids run with determination and joy—many in sandals, some barefoot. The top finishers receive prizes, with bikes for first place—a highlight that brings big smiles.
Race days span Saturday and Sunday, with distances ranging from 14K to 100 miles. Evenings remain filled with connection, but with a quieter tone to allow for rest. The races themselves are vibrant and powerful, with more Rarámuri runners than any other group. Their traditional, brightly colored clothing brings life and spirit to the course. This year’s heat added an extra layer of challenge, but the energy at the finish line never wavered—full of cheers, emotion, and celebration.
And of course, no Caballo Blanco week is complete without the gathering at Mama Tita’s patio. From there, we watch the final runners come in, sharing stories from the trails while enjoying incredible Mexican food—fresh guacamole, cold beer, and the simple joy of being together.
By the next morning, the vans are loaded once again. This time, filled not with strangers, but with friends. As we make our way back to Chihuahua, the week comes to a close—but the stories, connections, and memories linger long after.
This week is more than a journey—it’s a way of giving back. The race package directly supports True Messages and its ongoing work to honor, celebrate, and support the Rarámuri people. By showing up, each participant becomes part of something that extends far beyond the trail.